Bloat or stomach torsion is a very serious condition that can occur in any breed of dog. Without proper attention, it can lead to death. Some breeds are more prone to bloat and also predisposition to bloat can be passed on from the parents to the puppies genetically.

When a dog bloats, the stomach expands many times its normal size and causes tremendous abdominal pain. The cause of the stretching is the stomach filling with gas and food known as gastric dilatation. This leads to the twisting of the stomach and cutting off of blood supply and the exit routes for the gas inside. If not treated immediately, the dog can die within a matter of hours.

Symptoms of bloat may include the following:

• Extreme restlessness
• Excessive salivation and drooling
• Pacing
• Whining
• Rapid breathing and panting
• Cold and pale mouth membranes
• Collapse
• Trying to vomit or defecate without success
• Abdominal pain
• Enlarged abdomen

Factors that can increase the risk of bloat include the following:

• Raised feeding/food bowls (110% risk increase)
  
• Fast eater - dogs that eat fast are at greater risk of developing bloat
  
• Age - older dogs are at greater risk of developing bloat (20% risk increase for each year increase in age)
  
• Feeding a large amount per meal
  
• Dry dog food that has fat as the top four ingredients
• Having a first degree relative with bloat (GDV) (e.g. sire, dam, litter mate, offspring) (63% risk increase)
• Breeds with a deep and narrow chest are at higher risk (higher chest depth/width ratio) 

These are the top dog breeds with a risk of developing GDV or bloat:

1. Great Dane
   
2. Saint Bernard
3. Weimaraner
4. Irish Setter
5. Gordon Setter
6. Standard Poodle
7. Basset Hound
8. Doberman Pinscher
9. Old English Sheepdog
10. German Shorthaired Pointe
11. Newfoundland
12. German Shepherd
13. Airedale Terrier
14. Alaskan Malamute
15. Chesapeake Bay Retriever
16. Boxer
17. Collie
18. Labrador Retriever
19. English Springer Spaniel
20. Samoyed
21. Dachshund
22. Golden Retriever
23. Rottweiler
24. Miniature Poodle

How to prevent bloat?

Feeding less food per meal is one way to reduce the risk of bloating. Also, buying special bowls designed to slow down quick eaters may help. Feeding a high quality dog food will allow you to feed less per meal and reduce the risk of bloat. Avoid giving your dog food that has too much fat, especially fat in the top four ingredients.

If you suspect that your dog has bloat, take him or her immediately to the veterinarian as they may need to perform surgery to save your dog. The faster you take your dog to the veterinarian, the better the chances that your dog will recover successfully.

Useful links on bloat:

Perdue University

BLOAT: The life threatening canine emergency

BLOAT: THE MOTHER OF ALL EMERGENCIES

Dogs can easily get eye infections. As they scratch around their eye area, they can easily transfer bacteria and germs onto their eyes. Also, dogs love spending time outdoors in the tall grass and places where there are a lot of factors that can lead to eye infections.

If your dog's eyes are red, itchy, swollen, closed partially, or having a discharge that is white, yellow, or greenish, then your dog most likely has an eye infection. You can contact your veterinarian and ask for advice, but before you do that, you can try some home remedies. One way to lessen the redness and inflammation and soothe the infected eye is to clean it with cool water that had been previously boiled to make it free of any bacteria. Before you start cleaning the eye, wash your hands with soap first to disinfect them. After the water has cooled, take a cotton ball and dip it in cool water and gently clean the eye and the discharge around the eye to prevent further infection. If both eyes are infected, then use a separate cotton ball for each eye to stop the spreading of the infection. Clean the eyes several times a day, or whenever discharge is present.

An even better way to treat the infection besides washing the eyes with cool water is to use Chamomile tea. Basically, take some Chamomile tea that has cooled down first and rinse/cleanse the dog's eyes with the tea using a cotton ball. This is even better than just using cool boiled water because Chamomile also helps fight infection. You can also take a cold wet Chamomile tea bag or soak a piece of sterile cotton in the tea and apply it to your pet's eye for a few minutes (a compress) which will soothe the eye and also kill any bacteria that is present. You should do this 3 or 4 times a day. After a few days, you should start seeing less redness, swelling and discharge. If the condition does not improve, take your dog to the veterinarian to get prescription eye drops or ointment.

Another option you have is to make your own herbal eywash solution that is safe for your dog. Put a quarter of a teaspoon of salt in one cup of distilled or filtered water. Add about 10 drops of any of the following herbal extracts:

• Eyebright
• Calendula
• Chamomile
• Red clover
• St. John's wort

If none of the methods above work after applying them for a few days, then take your dog to the veterinarian as there might be something else that is causing the problem with your dog's eyes like allergies or physical injury to the eye. If you see that the condition of your dog's eyes is worsening or your dog's eyes are becoming cloudy, do not waste time and seek professional help immediately. 

Ticks are blood-feeding parasites that are often found in tall grass and shrubs, wooded and forested regions where they will wait to attach to a passing host. They cannot fly nor can they jump as some people believe they are capable of doing and there are different species of ticks. Ticks are very common around the world and can easily attach to your dog's skin or your own skin. Once they attach, it is not that simple to take them off. Ticks are known to carry various diseases such as Lyme disease, Q fever, Colorado tick fever, tularemia, tick-borne relapsing fever, babesiosis, ehrlichiosis and Tick-borne meningoencephalitis, as well as anaplasmosis in cattle and canine jaundice.

A tick will attach itself to its host by inserting its chelicerae (cutting mandibles) and hypostome (feeding tube) into the skin. The hypostome is covered with recurved teeth and serves as an anchor. Many people in the past have recommended using different chemicals to suffocate or burn the tick once it attaches. These have be proven to be not so safe solutions to this problem. Some suggest rubbing the tick with salt, or mineral oils, or alcohol, or Vaseline Petroleum Jelly, or to burn the tick with a match. All these methods can lead to the tick dying before releasing its grip and regurgitating your dog's blood and other chemicals back into your dog's bloodstream. This is unsafe and can cause a serious infection. Also, trying to pull the tick with your hands can leave the tick's jaws still embedded in your dog's skin causing an infection.

The best way to remove a tick from your dog or a human is to use sterilized tweezers. Swab the tweezers with alcohol to disinfect them or put them over a flame. Also, rub the area around the tick with alcohol but do not apply alcohol to the tick. Approach the tick from the side and try to position the tweezers as close as possible to the skin and between the skin and the tick's jaws. Slowly and gently try to pull the tick and maybe even use a side-to-side motion when pulling to loosen its grip. Make sure that you do it slowly and do not try to rush it. It may take more than a minute to remove the tick as the tick will tire out and eventually completely release its grip. Do not jerk or yank on the tick as this can cause the head of the tick to separate from the body and leave the mouth parts still embedded in your dog's skin.

There are also different tick removers on the market now which you can purchase at your local store or online. They are usually made from plastic and do pretty much the same thing tweezers will do.

Once you have removed the tick successfully, disinfect the affected area with alcohol. If you notice any swelling or rash where the tick had attached itself, call the veterinarian, or in the case where you were affected, call your doctor. Make sure that you or your dog gets checked for Lyme disease or any of the diseases that ticks are known to spread. Lyme disease is usually also accompanied by fever-like symptoms. To prevent a tick from attaching itself to your dog or you, try to stay away from wooden areas or areas with tall grass as this is where ticks will wait to find their host. If a tick ever does attach, now you know how to safely remove it. 

Dogs love rawhide bones, but are they really safe for them? Rawhide bones are readily available at your local pet stores and dogs love to gnaw or chew on them. They can also help your dog maintain healthy teeth and gums. Most people will tell you that they are safe if you carefully monitor your dog while he is chewing but even then they can be dangerous to your dog. How so you may ask?

Rawhide bones are bones made from animal skin, typically cattle. Rawhide bones are sometimes made by mixing cattle skin with pig skin. They can easily splinter when dry, and if your dog is a fast chewer and especially of larger size, he can bite off larger pieces that are sharp and that can perforate your dog's throat, stomach or bowel. It is very important that when giving your dog a rawhide bone, that you buy one that that is larger than the dog's mouth to prevent ingestion of whole pieces that had not been chewed properly and choking. Rawhide also expands when wet, so if your does not properly chew the rawhide before swallowing, the rawhide can expand in his intestines and cause a blockage. The intestinal blockage can lead to the dog's death if left untreated. Many dogs with sensitive stomachs will have problems digesting rawhide as a result of its tough and thick composition. Fast chewers or any larger breed dogs should not be given rawhide bones unless you are confident that they can safely ingest them and have no stomach discomfort afterward.

If you are looking for alternatives to rawhide bones, there are many. You could give your dog nylon bones to chew on them which are also healthy for their teeth and their gums. Nylon bones scrape away plaque, control tartar build-up, and maintain gum health by massaging the gums. Nylon bones will also stimulate your dog's mind and keep them busy for hours. This is especially important for dogs that constantly have the urge to chew to stop unwanted chewing behavior around the house. Nylon bones will also relive your puppy's teething pain and stimulate growth of adult teeth.

You could also try giving your dog real bones, but again you run the risk of the bone splintering and causing perforation of the intestine which can be a serious condition. Even though real bones are somewhat safer than rawhide bones, there is still the danger of sharp pieces breaking off and, as a result, many dog owners are against giving your dog real bones. Another substitute to real bones and rawhide bones are dental sticks made in different varieties, flavors and by different manufacturers. Just visit your local pet store and you will see a large assortment of these products. They will keep your dog's chewing needs satisfied while also cleaning his teeth and freshening his breath. You will see that they sell them in different textures, from soft to chewy to hard. You can choose the texture that best suits your dog's chewing habits and preferences.

If you are looking to give your dog rawhide bones, just know the dangers associated with rawhide bones. We are not saying that you should not give to any dog rawhide bones, but for some dogs there are better alternatives that are safer and provide the same benefits of rawhide bones - mind stimulation, reduce boredom, healthier teeth and healthier gums.

A common problem of all dog owners is their dogs licking their paws. Why do some dogs lick or chew their paws? There are several reasons so let's list them first and see what is your dog's reason. Paw licking and chewing is a serious condition that should be stopped or prevented and not allowed to persist. Such behavior can become a habit even after the dog has been treated for the condition. If you allow it to become a habit, then you will have a harder time breaking this bad habit. 

Reasons for your dog licking his paw include:

Physical Injury to the Paw - cuts, sprains, strains, bruises

To identify a physical injury, check your dog's paws carefully for any cuts, embedded objected between the toes/pads, redness between the toes/pads, swelling or sores. If the paw that the dog is licking is much warmer than the other paws or exhibits redness or swelling, in most cases this means there is an infection that can be treated with different antiseptic and antibacterial solutions. If it is a bacterial infection, do not use any creams. Creams will only trap the bacteria inside and prevent air to get through to the infected area to dry and heal it causing even more discomfort. Sometimes a broken nail or a nail that is too long and is pushing back against the paw can cause a lot of discomfort. Make sure that you regularly trim your dog's nails. 

Allergic Reaction

The symptoms of an allergy include redness, itchiness, and swelling of the paws. Have you changed your dog's food recently or his diet? If you did and your dog started to lick or chew his paws, he could be allergic to the new food. Change your dog's diet until the allergic reactions disappear. Other allergens could be insect bites, like bites from ticks, mites, flies and mosquitoes. Your dog could even be allergic to pollen (inhaled allergy or canine atopy) and certain types of grass which can be confirmed if your dog licks his paws or chews them every time he goes outside and plays in the grass. Your dog can also be allergic to the soap you are using to clean his toys, bowls or your carpets. The shampoo you use when giving him a bath could also be an allergen. Try to use only shampoos or soaps that are approved for dogs. Check also the fertilizer that you use for your grass. Make sure that it has a label stating that it is safe for pets. Even then, you should not let your dog play in the grass right after you applied the fertilizer and watered your lawn. Allow at least 24 hours before you let the dog play in the grass. When treating allergies, some dogs respond well to antihistamines such as Benadryl, other allergy medication and medicated shampoos. Before using any medications such as Benadryl, please consult with your veterinarian first.

Cracked, Dry and Itchy Winter Paws

When your dog goes outside for a walk and his paws get in contact with the wet snow, ice and chemicals such as deicers and road salt, it can cause irritation to the paw pads. Road salt is known to dry the paw pads leading to cracking and infections. This can be prevented by having the dog wear boots, but as we all know, how many dogs want to wear boots? A very popular and effective product made especially for dogs who do not like to wear boots is Musher's Secret - The Invisible Shield - 200 gm. It will prevent burns caused by ice, salt, chemicals, sand, and hot pavement. It is absolutely safe for your dog since it is made from 100% natural waxes that are non-toxic, non-allergenic and will not leave any stains. It is perfect for mushing, ski-jorring, hunting, walking, or before any outdoor activity. An alternative way to solve the problem is to apply Vaseline Petroleum Jelly to the paw pads and between the toes before going for a walk and this will keep his paws moisturized and protected from irritants like salt and deicers. Vaseline Petroleum Jelly can also be used when your dog's paw pads are dry and cracked. Remember to wash and thoroughly dry your dog's feet after coming from a walk to wash off the salt and dirt and prevent bacteria from developing. However, Vaseline Petroleum Jelly will not protect your dog's paws from frostbite. To prevent frostbite, only take the dog for a walk when it is warmer outside or limit the amount of time the dog spends outside. You could also try to put boots on the dog's feet to prevent frostbite.

Fungal Infection

If your dog licks his paws constantly, this can lead to a fungal infection which can be treated with an anti-fungal solution. The reason is that constant moisture and wetness of the paws encourages fungal growth, especially between the toes. Proper grooming such as the trimming of the hair between the toes can prevent moisture from collecting and increase the airflow between the toes keeping the paws dry.

Stress and Boredom

When dogs are stressed, they will chew or lick their paws to relax themselves. If your dog suffers from separation anxiety or any form of anxiety, you need to use behavioral therapy to solve this problem. Also, when dogs are bored, they may resort to chewing their own paws just to release that excess energy and frustration that is built inside them. This is why it is very important to walk your dog regularly and provide plenty of exercise and mind stimulation.

Ear infections are common in dogs. There are three types of ear infections in dogs: inner ear, middle ear, and outer ear infections. Ear infections can occur as a result of a bacterial infection, fungi, food allergies, after getting water in the ear during a bath, and improper hygiene. The symptoms of an ear infection are easy to spot: redness around and inside the ear, inflammation and foul-smelling wax discharge. The dog that has an ear infection will constantly shake his head and scratch his ear. The more difficult types of ear infection to treat are the inner and middle-ear infections. In these cases, you usually need to take your dog to the veterinarian to be prescribed antibiotics or ear drops.

The outer ear infection can be treated at home by cleansing and drying the ear with a solution that can be bought at your local pet store. You can even use natural products like tea tree oil or eucalyptus oil which are great for treating the outer ear infection commonly known as a "hot spot". Tea tree oil has antiseptic, antifungal and antibacterial properties and will speed up the healing process by slowly drying out the infected area. Eucalyptus oil has anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and analgesic qualities. Both of these oils also tend to have strong fragrances so it may take a while for your dog to get used to them. Apply one of these oils 2 to 3 times a day for 3-4 days using a cotton ball (do not use Q-tips or cotton swabs as this may cause even more harm) and you should start seeing an improvement. If there is no improvement, take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.

Dogs with long floppy ears (e.g. Cocker Spaniel and Basset Hound) tend to get ear infections more easily because of their ears either touching the ground or getting in contact with food and water/moisture. They can have small hairs growing in their ears that need to be removed since they attract moisture and prevent air circulation even more. If not groomed properly by a professional groomer, it could lead to an infection. Also, the air circulation can be restricted in the ears of such dogs which can cause a fungal infection. Such dogs should be groomed regularly and their ears should be cleaned and inspected on a weekly basis. Take the time to check your dog's ears and prevent any problems in the future which can cause discomfort to your dog.

We all know that dogs occasionally like to eat grass, but why they do it is still not fully proven. There are a couple theories, but the two most prominent ones are that either dogs like the smell and taste of grass and eat it as a result or because their stomach is upset and they want to throw up the food that cannot be digested properly. Recently, more and more dog owners believe their dogs eat grass because they like its sweet smell and taste.

We all know that dogs are mainly carnivores but can also be omnivores and opportunistic feeders, meaning they will eat vegetables and fruits if hungry or to keep their diet balanced, but their main diet is meat. So, when we take our dogs for a walk, they are looking around for different smells, as well as, feeding opportunities. The smell of the grass makes them want to try it. The problem is that they cannot completely chew the thin grass blades, so they swallow them. This causes a tickling/irritating sensation in their throats and stomach which makes them want to throw up. Hence, it is not that they eat grass to throw up or because their stomach hurts, but they eat grass because they like it.

I fully believe this is true since our dog wants to eat grass almost every time we go for a walk, especially the fresher and softer blades that have just recently grown. Many other dog owners concur with this fact and also say that their dogs eat grass every time they are in contact with it. This is good news! We all now know that our dogs are not possessed or crazy and that their stomachs are not upset every day of the week. I think that we can confidently say that we have found the answer as to why dogs eat grass.

While it is normal for dogs to eat grass, you need to be careful so that the dog does not eat grass that has been treated with an insecticide, herbicide, fertilizer or other harmful chemicals. When walking your dog, it is best to watch your dog constantly to make sure that he does not stop to eat the grass as most grass on the street and in parks is treated with some chemicals.

A hypoallergenic dog is a dog that is more suitable for people with allergies. Hypoallergenic dogs can still cause allergies but in a milder manner. In some people with allergies, specific hypoallergenic breeds do not trigger any allergy symptoms. The significant allergen for most people is a protein found in the dog's saliva and dander.

Here is a list of all of the known hypoallergenic dogs:

• Affenpinscher - Doesn't shed
• Bedlington Terrier - Doesn't shed
• Bichon Frisé - Recommended by AKC for allergy sufferers, along with some other breeds
• Bolognese - Doesn't shed
• Chinese Crested - Has very little fur, doesn't shed much but still produces saliva and dander
• Coton de Tulear - Doesn't shed
• Dandie Dinmont Terrier - Doesn't shed
• Greyhound - Short hair, single coat
• Goldendoodle - Crossbred with poodle, if coat is inherited from the poodle parent it will not shed, if coat is from the Golden Retriever parent, it will shed
• Havanese - Doesn't shed
• Irish Water Spaniel - Doesn't shed
• Italian Greyhound - Short hair, single coat
• Kerry Blue Terrier - Single-coated, short hair, sheds less
• Maltese - Doesn't shed
• Peruvian Inca Orchid - No hair
• Pomeranian - Minimal dander due to small size
• Poodles of all sizes - Doesn't shed. Due to extreme intelligence poodles need proper, consistent training to prevent excessive barking.
  
• Poodle hybrid - Crossbred - if coat is inherited from the poodle parent it will not shed, if coat is from the other parent, it may shed
• Portuguese Water Dog - Doesn't shed
• Puli - Doesn't shed
• Samoyed - No dander
• Schnauzers of all sizes - Short hair, sheds less. However, among the worst breeds for excessive barking, which thus produces saliva and dander.
• Shih Tzu - A Shih Tzu has two coats of fur, with the bottom coat shedding into the top coat rather than off of the dog entirely; as a result, this breed sheds very little in the conventional sense. With regular brushing and bathing, shedding can be reduced to almost nothing. As they shed so lightly, Shih-Tzu are considered to be one of the breeds more suitable for people with allergies.
• Silky Terrier - Does not shed. Hair will come out when brushed or combed. However, among the worst breeds for excessive barking, which thus produces saliva and dander.
• Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier - Doesn't shed
• Welsh Terrier - Doesn't shed
• Xoloitzcuintli - No hair but still produces saliva and dander

Seasonal alopecia or cyclic follicular dysplasia is the condition where a dog starts losing hair on the flanks and on the back. The skin becomes darker at the places where the hair loss is present and the hair becomes somewhat coarse and dry. The condition usually starts in the late fall or the early spring. It lasts for up to 6 months and the hair usually regrows after that. Seasonal alopecia can keep occurring in the future (possibly every year), or it can occur only once and never show up again. Dogs that are affected by this condition are usually 2 to 4 years of age. There is no proven reason for why this condition occurs, but some believe that lack of sunlight might play a role. The reasoning behind this is that during the long and cold winters, dogs spend less time outdoors and there is less sunlight. Many dogs start exhibiting the condition in the early spring as a result of this. Some suggest treatment with melatonin to speed up the regrowth of hair. However, no proof exists that melatonin is in fact responsible for the hair regrowth. Breeds that are more susceptible to this condition than others are: Affenpinscher, Airedale Terrier, Boxer, Bulldog, Staffordshire Terrier, and Wirehaired Pointing Griffon.

Note: Before concluding that your dog has seasonal alopecia, make sure that the veterinarian rules out thyroid disease which has similar symptoms. To check for this, a blood test needs to be performed. Also, the veterinarian may want to take a small skin sample to test for parasites and mites and certain bacteria.